Sweet Feast at Osborne

By Suzanne Whitewood

Queen Victoria’s dining table will be resplendent with Victorian dessert delicacies forming a stunning centrepiece of a feast of festive decorations bedecking Osborne House.

Created for English Heritage by food historian, author and broadcaster Ivan Day, the table is set for dessert in a style Queen Victoria, Prince Albert and members of 19th century aristocracy would have recognised. Four giant jellies, including a ‘his and hers’ pair created for the wedding in 1863 of Edward Prince of Wales and Princess Alexandra of Denmark, have been painstakingly recreated by Ivan using the original Victorian moulds.

A timbale in the form of a beehive complete with bees made from pistachios, currants and flaked almonds, cakes for dipping in sweet wine and a vast ornamental ‘croquembouche,’ held together with caramelised sugar, decorate the table. There are even walnuts tied with silk ribbon – Victorian servants spent hours making these! A silver epergne with cascading fruit and flowers and foliage dressed by floral architect James James-Crook completes the abundant table.

Dishes on the royal dining room’s sideboard are as they appeared in photographs taken in the 1890s, with a traditional boar’s head taking pride of place.

“I didn’t aim to do a perfectly faithful reproduction of the Christmas table at Osborne, but to illustrate a typical scene with a dessert course set as expected by the upper echelons of 19th century society,” said Ivan.

James James-Crook, whose company Pineappleheads specialises in themed arrangements, has decorated two huge Christmas trees in the style favoured by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Garlands of dried herbs wind up the main staircase and decorate mantelpieces. As visitors arrive, they will see a 15 foot tree at the end of the entrance hall and be greeted by lovely scents from oranges and cinnamon sticks.

Those on guided tours will also have the opportunity to meet a member of Queen Victoria’s ‘below stairs’ staff and hear about their daily life. Real gifts given to Queen Victoria by her family will be on display and knowledgeable guides will provide a vivid insight into festive life at Osborne House.

Tours take place until the 7th January on Wednesdays to Sundays from 10am to 4pm (last tour 2.30pm). The cost is £9.50 for adults, £7.10 for concessions and £4.80 for children under 16. They are free for English Heritage members and children under five. Booking is strongly recommended – call 01983 200022. Those taking tours can enjoy a walk in the grounds around the house, while there will also be carol singers on hand to enhance that Christmas experience. Osborne’s smart café and shop in its new visitor centre is open to visitors, so you can look for that unusual Christmas gift. For those wishing to have a meal in the terrace restaurant it will be open at weekends in November and December, and you can phone 298052 for more details.